California, 2017

Vernal Falls

Another successful, semi-annual California summit of Sarah, Michele, and Laura is in the books! We spent 2.5 days in Yosemite hiking (including climbing Half Dome) and driving around the park, and 2.5 days in the Monterey area drinking wine, visiting the aquarium, and eating tons of delicious food. Here are a few highlights and photos.

Half Dome Village

View from Half Dome Village

On Tuesday, Sarah flew into LA from NY, where Michele picked her up and they drove 4.5ish hours to the Fresno airport, where I arrived. Then we drove a couple hours (but surprisingly few miles) to Yosemite National Park. We booked a tent with four cot-beds on a wooden floor, nestled in a colony of identical semi-permanent shelters in the Half Dome Village. We arrived a little before dinner time, so we dropped our bags and toured around our little colony. There were hundreds of tents next to a little center with a souvenir shop, grocery store, pizza place, buffet restaurant, and bar.

We had a quick dinner and got ready for an early bedtime. We were going to get up around 5 am for the Half Dome hike, estimating it would take us anywhere from 10 to 14 hours. We met a girl in the bathroom who did it in 10 hours, which instilled a tiny bit of optimism, but she also appeared to be in much better shape than us.

Wednesday morning the alarms were blaring, but we were moving pretty slowly. It was too early for the park shuttle (or breakfast, but Michele brought coffee), so we had to walk almost a mile from camp to the trail head. We started on the trail by 6:30, and it was gorgeous. Towering green trees (I can't tell tree species, sorry) soaring around us, soft dirt surrounding our paved path, a creek babbling by, little woodland creatures scurrying. But then it quickly became steep, and didn't stop for a couple hours. We passed two waterfalls and then slowly plateaued out. We had "lunch" at 9:30 in a nice meadow area by the river where people who don't bring enough water restock their camelbaks on the way down. (Tip if you want to hike Half Dome: I had a 3-liter generic camelbak and a 1-liter Nalgene, which was the exact amount of water one person needs. I also had hiking poles, gloves for the cables, a visor and sunscreen, and plenty of food.)

On the Mist Trail

Cables!

Shortly after lunch (PB&J and trail mix) we got to the second uphill push, which consisted of a bunch of switchbacks for about an hour. Then we came out to a nice, flat vista where we could see Half Dome, and people climbing up the terrifying cables strapped to the side of the rock face. It's way too steep to just hike up, so the park installed cable handrails that you use to pull yourself up the rock face for the final 400 or so feet. My palms started sweating looking at it.

Then we had a bit of gradual uphill before the "granite stairs," also known as the "sub-dome," which is the last uphill push before the cables. It was about 30 minutes of granite steps in switchbacks, and then an expanse of open dome face, but at a low enough grade that you just lean in and walk up it. There's no trail or anything, but the peak of Half Dome is right there, so you just aim for it.

Top of Half Dome

And then we got to a little dip in the terrain. We had completed the sub-dome and were staring at Half Dome. It was a flat reprieve, except that you were walking toward the cables, and you could see the people scurrying up them. All of my pores started sweating. I'm terrified of heights, and this was a doozy. But Michele and I charged forward valiantly (Sarah decided she had enough just before the end of the sub-dome), bracing for the inevitable. We already hiked straight up for almost 7 hours. Of course this shit was happening.

We both knew to bring gloves (anyone considering it: BRING GLOVES. There's a pile of gloves left by other hikers at the base of the cables, but I wouldn't depend on them), so we pulled them out and slid them on our hands like warriors of old preparing for battle. We left our hiking poles at the base of the cables but carried our backpacks with us for water.

Yosemite Falls

Mish and I conferred at the base of the cables and decided I would go first. I walked up, put one hand on each cable (imagine a narrow stairwell, where the railings are thin cables and the steps are wooden planks 10 feet apart and 10 feet straight up and everything else is a rock face steeply leading off to your death), and went for it. It wasn't difficult in the beginning because it wasn't too steep yet. Just step, step, cable, cable, and boom, you're at the first wooden plank. But then it got steeper, and we caught up to a girl having a panic attack on the way up who caused a traffic jam for people trying to go down (did I mention up and down traffic share the same narrow cable staircase?), and it got a little hairier. But I shocked myself by not freaking out about the heights. I was able to chill and look around at each wooden plank I had to stop at, while also encouraging the girl in front of me. It took us much longer than it should have to get to the top, but panic-attack girl made it too and I'm glad I didn't devolve into one of those assholes who yelled at her about keeping it moving so they could go. Slow and steady wins the race for everyone. 

We made it to the top, and stumbled our way toward the edge of Half Dome. As always with these sorts of things, it was anti-climatic. I never get a rush of satisfaction at reaching a peak. I never imagine ticker tape raining down upon me. It's a sweaty, exhausting, drained moment in which I say, "Cool. I'm here." I feel the satisfaction of a hike when I'm at the bottom, looking back up at where I've come from. So Michele and I drank some water, took some photos, and I headed back down as an unchanged human.

But here's the crazy thing. Going down the cables was AMAZING! It was so much fun. I felt like I was at an amusement park. It looked awful on the way up, but on the way down it was a ride. I held each cable in my corresponding hand and slid down Half Dome, stopping when I needed to let people going up pass. It was the best part of the hike, hands down. Super fun.

Fish Hopper on Cannery Row, Monterey

Then we got back to the sub-dome and we had 5+ hours of downhill until we were back at camp. I'll spare you the details because it's like every time I go downhill: awful, painful, grumpy, nothing worth reading about. We made it back to camp after 13 hours. Much worse than the super-fit, friendly girl in the bathroom, but much better than everyone who didn't make it to the top. Overall it was about 15 miles. We took the Mist Trail up (which is steeper but shorter and takes you closer to the waterfalls) and the Muir Trail down (which is longer but has less extreme downhills).

Monterey Aquarium

We were all hobbled and sore, but we made it to the village square for food and celebratory drinks. And then a loooong night of sleep.

I'm going to breeze through the rest of the trip, not because it was less interesting, but because the hike was the formative lynch pin of the trip. And because I got carsick and puked twice on the ride from Yosemite to Monterey and no one needs to read that.

The day after the Half Dome hike, Michele drove us around Yosemite. We saw Yosemite Falls and various other parts of the park. That night we had dinner at our village and took the shuttle to the fancy hotel for drinks.

Sunset, sisters, wine

Vineyards

Lover's Point, Monterey (great for reading)

Big Sur

Andrew Molera Park, Big Sur

The next day we headed out of the park (which always takes a long time) toward Monterey, arriving in time for dinner overlooking the water at what the hostess said was the best table in the restaurant (why she gave it to us will always be a mystery). We went back to our adorable AirBnB for wine and board games. The next day we did the 17-mile drive through Pebble Beach to Carmel, and hit up some wine-tasting rooms in Carmel. We drove out to the Carmel Valley to a couple of tasting rooms and then drove back to town (Mish was being a very good sport and being our driver). Then it was a sunset drink on the beach, another awesome seafood dinner, more board games, and bed. The next day we went to the aquarium, which is so much more expensive than I expected but I'm happy to pay it. Our rental house provided 2 free passes, but it was still $50 for the third admission. Worth it, because they do so much education and conservation work as well. Go to the aquarium!

Big Sur

Sarah and Mish drove out to more wineries that afternoon, but I wanted to walk to the beach with my book and relax. Everyone got what they wanted, and we met up for dinner later at the fantastic Red House. The next day we had breakfast at the Red House again because it was so good, dropped Sarah off at the airport, and Mish and I drove toward Big Sur. The town is still cutoff because of the mudslide, but we were able to do a little beach walk and see some beautiful sights before it was time for me to go to the tiny Monterey airport for my long flights home.

Bixby Creek Bridge, Big Sur

My Economics of Travel

I read that cognitive science proved planning a trip is actually more fun for the human brain than taking a trip, and I believe it. I get so excited when I have a trip on the horizon. The imaginary expectations are almost always better than the reality. Movies, literature, art, friends, Instagram, Yelp, and so many random life encounters have already set the scene and my expectations and nothing ever matches them. When I'm planning a trip, everything is visually crisp, the food is fresh, the settings are undiscovered.

However, the planning part requires a hard look at finances, which takes a lot of the fun out of the process. That said, when I started this blog I promised at least one post about finances. I love to analyze budgets, so it will likely be a recurring theme, but we'll start with one post on the economics of travel.

To start, I need to address the obvious lifestyle factors. I'm 35 years old, a working professional, and I've chosen not to have children. That should immediately give you an idea of how I am able to make travel a financial priority. I don't have to save for anyone's college (I'm still paying off mine), I buy clothes and food for one person (plus a dog who eats almost more than I do, and a cat but she's cheap), and I don't have to pay for daycare or insurance or any of the other high costs that come with having a family. I was born into a middle-class family that openly discussed budgets and money management, which puts me at an advantage from the get-go.

My dependents are pretty chill

So, other than not having kids, how would I recommend planning and saving for travel?

1. Take an honest look at your budget.
Obvious, I know, but still worth stating. I have a list of my monthly expenses and my monthly income on my phone and in the little notebook I keep in my purse. I'm constantly checking it and comparing my budget to my actual money spent. My big bills (mortgage, student loans, HOA fees, etc.) are paid automatically from my bank account. I put all of my "extra" expenses (groceries, pet care, gas, going out, etc.) on my travel-rewards credit card. (And pay it off in full every month. Credit card debt is crippling.) I have frequent-flyer accounts with all the major airlines. I've been doing this for so many years, I've pretty much trimmed all the fat out of my monthly expenses that I can. But for folks who haven't taken a magnifying glass to their spending patterns yet, you can almost certainly find ways to save a tiny bit a month. And it really does add up.

2. Set aside monthly withdrawals into a special savings account.
I use SmartyPig, but there are ample choices for online savings accounts. I like SmartyPig because it lets me set up multiple savings goals in my one savings account, and then fund each goal with a recurring deposit from my separate checking account each month (or any frequency that works for you). I have an emergency savings fund, a travel fund, a property taxes and insurance fund, a charity fund, and on and on and on (right now I have seven different goals going). I fund them all at different amounts and frequencies. But I've made travel one of the priorities, so it gets a small piece of my paycheck every month. It's not a devastating amount to miss each month, but at the end of the year it supplements my trips.

3. Consider your income taxes.
This one is rightly controversial, but I set up my income taxes so I'm taking the fewest deductions out of every paycheck. Each year I get a tax return, and this is always my main source of travel funds. I know there are many arguments against this approach, but it's easier for me to let the government sit on my money for a year and then give it to me in a lump sum, even though I know I could be earning interest on it elsewhere. It's laziness, pure and simple. I think of my taxes as an extension of my travel saving account, and it hasn't become worth the effort to change my approach yet. Maybe I'll realize the error of my ways later, but for now, getting that tax return in February (I file early because it's always fun money!) is like getting permission to take all those trips I've been planning for that year.

4. Plan far in advance (I'm talking years).
I have a note on my phone (and again in that notebook I carry everywhere) with the trips I want to take for the next four years. I'm crazy about planning. Not only does it let me start imagining the fun way before the trip happens, but I can move trips around like pieces of a financial jigsaw puzzle. For example, in 2017 I had planned on going to Iceland for my yearly foreign trip, and then to Cuba in 2018, and Morocco in 2019. But then Andrew and I learned that we'll probably be going to England in 2018 for his cousin's wedding. That's very close to Iceland. I did a quick check into flights, and it made way more sense for us to switch 2017 and 2018. Flights to Cuba right now are about $400 round trip. Flights to Iceland are about $1000. Flights to England are in between the two. If we're going to pay for flights to England in 2018 anyway, we could tack on a cheaper flight on a regional airline from England to Iceland, and only be out a few hundred dollars. If we had gone to Iceland this year, and then Cuba and England next year, we would have been $1000 in the hole before we even started.

I realize this is an extreme example (and I sound really obnoxious), but knowing all the places you want to go in the next five or so years, and being flexible about them, can help you adjust to outside life events that might translate to big money.

5. Go off season.
Pretty self-explanatory, but travel in peak season is always significantly more expensive. Off season doesn't always mean bad weather, either. And if you've mapped out places for the next five years, you'll know which ones are good for off-season travel and which ones you really need to save more for to go during peak season.

6. Balance
My commitment to myself is one foreign country a year. That can range from less than $1,000 a trip (see my Jamaica birthday trip) to...say...six times that (see my Tanzania trip). I try to move from one bank-busting trip to one relatively more affordable trip. Obviously these ranges are whatever your budget deems expensive and affordable. But if I take a Tanzania-level trip one year, I'll be planning a Jamaica-level trip the next. That way, it's more like I'm planning two trips over two years, and they get to share the costs. The amount I save each year doesn't change, but I'll have leftover on a Jamaica year that I'll then devour on a Tanzania year.

7. Plan for a lifetime of travel.
In addition to the specific countries on my five-year plan, I have a road map of travel expectations for the rest of my life. I'm in my mid-30s now, with full mobility and good health. So I'm going to take my active trips sooner rather than later. And the older I get, the more stubborn and cranky I'll become (I apologize in advance), so I also want to take the out-of-my-comfort zone trips as early as I can. European capitals will still be lovely when I'm in my 70s, but I might not want to trek the Annapurna Circuit at that age. Plus, I'm working full time and getting full benefits right now. I have more expendable cash than I will when I'm retired. So the crazy, epic, adventure trips need to happen now. I won't be able to afford the flights when I'm on a fixed income.

That's the extent of my budget advice for now. Maybe I'll hit upon the holy grail of affordable, amazing world travel, but until that happens, I'll try to post anything that might be helpful. Hit me up if you have questions or gripes about any of this (finances are a very emotional subject, and I might have inadvertently offended someone or come off as pretentious; I don't want either of those.). And please let me know if you have travel-budget advice!

A Little Nashville, A Little More Maine

I just wrapped another 2017 mini-break! I hope I'm not starting to sound obnoxious with all these little trips I've been taking. I promise they're much more economical than they probably sound. This latest started with a work trip to Nashville (so all expenses paid!), followed by five days in Maine.

I was in Nashville from Saturday through Wednesday, but working every day, so my sightseeing was limited to eating. But I think I did pretty great on that front. On Saturday night I went to Husk, a highly recommended restaurant near the convention center, with two coworkers. It's in an adorable old house, but we had to sit in the basement bar because I didn't make reservations. It was still charming, though, even if the bartenders were snobby tools and not good communicators (I'd recommend you confirm if you're ordering a glass of beer or a two-liter bottle of beer. And who knew butter could be so complicated?).

So charming

My blurry but tasty grilled catfish, zucchini, and grits on the left; Lindsay and Allan displaying the $36 beer our bartender failed to warn her about on the right.

Sunday I worked through dinner at the convention center with all of my coworkers, but on Monday we were able to go out to dinner again. This time a few of us headed to Broadway (where all the tourist-trap honky tonks are) and chose Acme Feed and Seed for dinner. It had four levels, with a band on the first and a rooptop deck on the fourth. They make you order at the counter and wait around by the registers for your food to come out, which was a little awkward (and loud thanks to the band, but I'm old and grumpy), but then we took our plates and drinks up to the second level to eat. Afterward we were able to score some spots on the roof for a couple drinks while the sun set.

Walking down Broadway

 

Acme Feed and Seed: sunset from the roof, inside on the first floor

Delicious scallops from Etch

See the guitar?

For our last dinner on Tuesday, my boss took me and my team out for the best meal of the trip. We walked a few blocks to Etch, and again sat at the bar because we didn't have reservations, but this time the service was excellent. We had roasted cauliflower as an appetizer (highly recommend) and I ordered scallops for dinner. They were gigantic and delicious, but overpriced enough to make me very grateful that my boss was paying. After dinner we headed back to the hotel bar before going out for the all-staff party (an annual tradition on the last night of the conference), and I noticed for the first time that the convention center I'd spent the last four days inside was shaped like a guitar. Well played, Nashville.

Classy travelin' with a GooGoo

At 1:00 pm on Wednesday I was released with most of my conference compatriots, and it was time for me to fly to Maine! The best part about adding a personal trip to the end of a work trip is my company generously paid me the amount they would have spent flying me home from Nashville to Austin, so I was able to put that toward my Maine flights. I flew to Charlotte and on to Portland, arriving late on Wednesday. Andrew, who had arrived earlier that day, picked me up at the airport. We made it to his parents' house in an hour and went right to bed. The next morning I woke up to Dunkin' Donuts and a variety pack of Whoopie Pies, best Maine welcome ever.

Running errands pre-party with Calo

Steamer clams

Andrew's parents planned a cookout for Thursday afternoon, and around noon friends and family started showing up. We played ladder golf, the guys built a bonfire as usual, we ate clams and beer-can chicken and grilled shrimp and veggies, and drank too much. It was a gorgeous day, too.

Eat here!

Andrew with Karen's bounty

On Friday we slept in a little before packing up and driving down to Boothbay Harbor, where the wedding was going to be. The rehearsal dinner was tonight, and Andrew and I scored invites without any responsibilities. Win-win. On the way we stopped for lunch at a little food trailer in Wiscasset called Karen's Hideaway, and I can't recommend it highly enough. Karen (I'm assuming) and her partner we so sweet and welcoming, and the food was deeeelicious. And plentiful and reasonably priced. (It was $45 for four of us to be stuffed and have leftover fries and onion rings.) Definitely stop by if you're in the area, but bring cash because they don't accept cards.










We arrived at the Newagen (a little town near Boothbay Harbor) Seaside Inn and settled in our room with a balcony overlooking the lawn and the harbor before heading down to the wedding rehearsal. Then it was time for cocktails and yet more amazing seafood (don't judge that all of my food photos are seafood). After dinner they set up a s'mores station on the lawn by the fire pit and a game of cornhole. Unfortunately, June in Maine means mosquitoes, and I forgot bug spray. At one point in the evening I looked over at Andrew and saw no fewer than ten mosquitoes swarming his head. That's when I had to call it a night.
 

View from our room: we made s'mores over that fire.

The next morning, after our free hotel breakfast buffet (jackpot), Andrew and I drove into Boothbay Harbor for a little shopping (Priority #1: bug repellent) and sightseeing. The town is picturesque with narrow streets, shops and cafes, and boats in the harbor.

Boothbay Harbor: Downtown street on the left, coffee break on the top right, botanical gardens on the bottom right

After wandering around town a bit, we went for a quick walk through a nature preserve and then to the botanical gardens. It was in the 70s and pretty much perfect (sorry, I'm not bragging; Maine is just idyllic).

The wedding was gorgeous

Another amazing meal

Sunset at the wedding

We headed back to the hotel with plenty of time to spare before the 4:00 wedding, set out on the lawn in front of the harbor, looking like a postcard. Afterrward there was cocktail hour in the gazebo, followed by another amazing seafood dinner, and then lots of me dancing like a jackass.







Sadly, Sunday came, and we had to pack up and check out of the room. Andrew and I drove back to Portland for our flight home, but not before stopping at a lighthouse for photos and a fish market for a thank-you present for my parents (aka my pet sitters). Maine, until next time! xoxoxoxo

Colorado, May 2017

Continuing the mini-break trend this year, one month after going to West Texas, the boyfriend and I packed up for a long weekend in Colorado. One of his best friends from high school was getting married near Boulder, so we were going for his Saturday wedding and decided to make a long weekend of it. We flew to Denver on a Wednesday night after work, and flew back home on Sunday. Here are a few of the highlights and pictures.

Hiking in Rocky Mountain National Park! The weather was beautiful (sunny and cool); the trail was one of those magical ones where the ground is soft and muffles all the sound so you feel like you're communing with the trees; and there were waterfalls and snow on the ground in spots.

Rocky Mountain National Park

Stanley Hotel (aka The Shining hotel)

I have to include photos of myself
because A and I didn't take
real photos. :-(

Estes Park where we stayed for one night and wandered around the picturesque main street (and swung by the Stanley Hotel because it's obligatory).






Boulder: We rented bikes to cruise around the incredibly bike-friendly city. They even have a bicycle highway network! People can get around the whole town without having the constant threat of death by car that I experience regularly in Austin. First we biked up to Chautauqua Park, but the lack of immediate shade put a damper on my enthusiasm for exercise, so we turned around and headed into downtown. We hit the main shopping street before stopping by the Dushanbe Tea House (built in Tajikistan and shipped to Boulder!) for chai and snacks. And then it was time to try out a couple breweries. We went to Vision Quest where I had a tasty sour beer, and Sanitas where I think I had an IPA (but it wasn't super remarkable).

Dushanbe Tea House

Biking to the next brewery in Boulder

And the wedding, of course, which was beautiful AND included brunch (the best of all the meals). Par for the trip, I only took this photo at the wedding, which shows nothing about the lovely couple, venue, food, or ceremony.

Handsome introvert finds his beer

Thanks for treating me so well, Colorado! I've been stranded at the Denver airport twice, but this trip is a good start to redeeming yourself.

West Texas, April 2017

The last time I went to West Texas, it was August and I was on crutches. It's much better in April with full mobility. Ironically, I roughed it way more on crutches.

Moon rise at Indian Lodge

Indian Lodge

This time around, Andrew's parents and his aunt and uncle planned a long weekend for all of us, based in Indian Lodge in the Davis Mountains State Park. Andrew and I drove out on a Wednesday and I was pleasantly surprised that the drive from Austin to the Davis Mountains was only 6.5 hours. I thought it was 8. We beat the real grown ups to Indian Lodge (they were coming from Houston via Kerrville via San Antonio via a bunch of backroads for geocaches), so we checked in, dropped our bags in our room, and wandered the beautiful hotel made to look like an adobe village. After our tour, right on time, the adults arrived.

After Ed, Sharon, Mary, and Lee settled in, we piled into Mary and Lee's car and drove to Marfa for dinner. Only 30 minutes away, it was the first of a few satellite destinations on our list.

Paisano patio

We had dinner at Hotel Paisano, the fancy hotel in Marfa, followed by drinks on their picturesque patio while we waited for the sun to go down. Aside from the Chinati Foundation (which we did not go to but I've been to on that crutches trip--highly recommend), the Marfa Lights are the biggest attraction in town, but you can only see them at night. So we had a little time to kill before driving over to the viewing area. On a good night, visitors can see inexplicable dots of light on the horizon, moving in weird and unpredictable ways. Some seem to fly right at you, others dance around or flicker, and still others just flash on occasion.

Looking for the Lights

I say this based on experience. I've seen them before, and they're super cool on a good night. Theories abound as to what causes the lights (aliens, car lights, atmospheric reflections, cow farts, etc.), but there's still no scientific consensus, which is one of the biggest draws. We all think we'll be able to solve the mystery. Unfortunately for our group, we did not make any groundbreaking discoveries that night. We saw a couple lights in the distance that might have been remarkable, but also might have been porch lights on distant houses. After about 30 minutes of valiant staring, we all gave up. No Marfa Lights for us.

Old Mine Trail, Big Bend

The next morning Andrew and I got up and headed straight for Big Bend National Park. We were going to spend the day there, while the grown ups went to Terlingua (a very cool ghost town with a general store and a bar full of locals, but not much else). The drive for me and Andrew was about two hours to our trail head. We hiked the Old Mine Trail, a nice, 5ish-mile roundtrip. After the hike we drove around the park for a while, seeing the Santa Elena Canyon before heading back to Davis Mountains.

Old Mine Trail, Big Bend

Santa Elena Canyon, Big Bend

There's one restaurant at Indian Lodge, but they're only open for breakfast and lunch. (Side note: If you're in the area, go there for breakfast and order something you can put their syrup on. Best syrup ever. It tasted almost like an ice-cream topping, caramel or dulce de leche. Do it.) But it was getting close to dinner time, so Andrew and I drove into Fort Davis (the town by the Davis Mountains State Park) to scope out the options. It's a cute small town, with a main street housing pretty much all the food choices (which are limited). We decided to try the Blue Mountain Bistro and, despite the dreadful service, had a delicious meal. Then we were going to wander the cute stores on the main street, but everything was closed already. It was maybe 7:30.

Hotel Limpia, Blue Mountain Bistro

The next morning we hiked through the Davis Mountains and into the Old Fort of Fort Davis. It has a lot of the old, preserved buildings from when it was a functioning fort after the Civil War. At some point the army converted it to a "buffalo soldier" fort, and it was interesting to read about the history and class systems in the fort. But it was hot and we were in full sun and I accidentally kicked a rattlesnake who was sleeping in the grass, so we decided to leave pretty quickly. The roundtrip hike was about nine miles, and Andrew and I both got sunburned. Other than those two hikes, we did a lot of lounging around the hotel, reading by the pool, taking naps, and so on.

Old Fort, Fort Davis

We also drove out to the McDonald Observatory, about 20 minutes from Davis Mountains, for a star party one night. It's a fully functioning, academic observatory, and they frequently host star parties for the public to come out, listen to experts talk about astronomy, and actually look through some of the professional telescopes. They had about seven giant telescopes set up that night, trained on different spots in the sky, and an expert at each one to explain what you were looking at. I loved it, and highly recommend it. One tip, though. The party starts in an open-air auditorium with a speaker pointing out constellations in the sky and discussing all things astronomy. It's interesting, but not the best part and kind of basic information. After about 20 minutes of talking, the speaker paused and said people with kids or anyone generally impatient was free to get up and start looking in the telescopes if they wanted. Everyone else could stay seated for the rest of the talk. I'm impatient, so I headed right for the telescopes. Most people stayed for his talk, so the lines at each scope weren't crazy. I managed to look through almost all of them before he released the rest of the audience, at which point the lines got awful. So leave when the speaker makes the first offer.

Planet Marfa tipi

We spent our last full day back in Marfa, wandering around before lunch at Pizza Foundation, and wandering around some more before drinks at Planet Marfa, my new favorite spot in town. It's a beer garden with an old school bus, a tipi, and little tables tucked into random angles around the patio. But then it was time to head back to Indian Lodge for our last lazy evening in West Texas before the not-as-bad-as-I-expected drive back to Austin. I love this corner of my home state for its vastness, variety of landscape, quirky character, and peaceful vibe. I'm sure I'll be out that way again within the next few years. If you have any favorites in the area, please let me know!

West Texas sunset