Thursday, June 5, 2014

Solo Travels, Part 2: The Joy and Self-Reflection


I love traveling by myself. There is almost nothing I can think of that is so joyously liberating as being in a place where I know no one and I have no expectations put upon me. When I get to act free from judgment (relatively, I suppose, but at least I haven’t heard or understood the judgments), I can focus on judging my own actions in a quasi-vacuum; I find it to be pretty darn insightful.

I think solo traveling gives me the freedom to see what I do without my normal social structure and comfortable boundaries influencing me. Of course, we all carry our influences and expectations around with us, but removing all familiarity and plopping myself in a foreign situation is a good way to strip as many of those external forces out of the mix. It is a rare opportunity that traveling affords and the source of that clichéd “finding yourself” theme. Clichéd, yes, but clichés can be true.

To beat a dead horse (I need a less gruesome saying…anyone?), here is my very first experience traveling alone and the mini lessons it taught me.

London, England
I flew from Austin to London solo when I was 21. I had graduated college a month earlier and I was so excited to be taking this first adult adventure by myself. My sweet mom had taken me to the airport and she cried as I walked through the security checkpoint, which brought home just how big this step was (lesson one: my mom is the biggest softie and I have a uncontrollable, reciprocal cry reaction to her tears). Six months abroad! I had no contacts, no safety net, no job prospects or ideas of what I would do, just a work visa and a hostel lined up for two weeks.

When I made it to Heathrow, I exchanged some cash, found my way to the Tube station, and faced one my fears straight away: how to buy a pass that would get me where I needed to go. When you grow up somewhere with basically no public transportation, trying to figure out Tube routes and fares can be pretty daunting, let me tell you (lesson two: other cities do it better, Austin). Lucky for me, London knows what it’s doing and makes it super easy. Success number one was buying my ticket and making to the platform going in the correct direction. I felt like a genius, well on my way to conquering the great city (lesson three: self-reliance feels amazing).

Coming out of the Tube, up to the busy streets above, I was completely disoriented and didn’t know which direction my hostel was. But hyper self-conscious of appearing to be a bumbling tourist, I just picked a direction and started walking like I knew where I was going (lesson four: I might be a bit narcissistic [no surprise, I did start a blog]). A couple blocks in, I realized I was going the wrong way. So just as purposefully, I swung my giant wheelie suitcase around (I hadn’t bought my trusty backpack at that point) and marched off the other way. I wanted people to think I lived in London and was just returning home from a trip abroad, heading back to my flat (lesson five: I'm an idiot). About five minutes after that, I was still lost and not sure I was heading in the right direction, so I swallowed my pride, gave up all hope of being seen as a local, and flagged down the nearest local-looking lady I came across to ask for directions.

I still remember how kind and friendly she was (lesson six: most people really are nice if you give them the chance). She was, in fact, from London, but nevertheless didn’t know where my street was. She said, “Hang on; let me check the A to Zed.” Huh? I had no idea what she was talking about, but she pulled out a city map from her purse (one I would see again and again during my time in London), looked up my street, and seemed genuinely excited for me to learn that it was just a couple blocks away, in the direction I was already heading. Success number two! I made a mental note to buy one of those handy maps and continued on my way.

I few minutes later I had lugged my beast of a suitcase up a bunch of narrow stairs and dumped it on my hostel bed (lesson seven: get a freaking backpack already), next to my new roommate Naomi. We exchanged a bit of introductory chitchat and then she insisted on taking me to the nearest Tesco for my first grocery-shopping trip in London (lesson eight: you bag your own groceries in the UK). I felt like a local just a few hours into my adventure!

I know, it all sounds so simple and mundane in the recounting, but the excitement of every single moment is indescribable. It’s a feeling of empowerment and giddy anticipation and communal trusting in the kindness of strangers that can only fully be understood in the experience of dropping away from all comfort and familiarity and going it alone. In case I haven’t made it clear yet, I highly recommend it!

Wednesday, May 7, 2014

Solo Travels, Part 1: The Stigma

Hello, again! I just want to say really quickly how much I appreciate you kind folks for indulging me and reading my posts. 


Now for the topic of the day—traveling alone. Daunting to many, luxurious to some, but somehow still stigmatic to others. I thought I’d write just one post on what I’ve learned from my solo travels, but then I realized I’d need to address the stigma first, because unless that’s out of the way, some people won’t actually read anything else. When I write about the joy of waking up whenever I want, wandering to whatever café I want for coffee and pastries and planning my adventures for the day, they’ll just think, “But it’s so sad, so pathetic, to travel by yourself. I could never do that.” It’s not! It’s totally not! And you totally could!

So this will be a two-part post, starting with the negative impressions. From what I can gather, the stigma of traveling alone mostly comes from a sense of shame, based on imagined reactions from other people. Shame at telling your friends or family or coworkers that you couldn’t find someone to go on a trip with you. Or that it means (or that people will think it means) you don’t have someone special in your life to share the experience with. That traveling alone somehow equates to being a lonely person, someone adrift without loved ones.

I think it’s an extension of the shame that keeps some people from going to the movies or dinner alone.  But going to the movies alone is one of life’s great joys! And in general I completely disagree with the premise that a person alone is necessarily a lonely person. There are a bajillion reasons for someone to be out in the world, doing exciting or fun or mundane things alone, none of which have to stem from a lack of people to do those things with.

Some people want to take trips that their friends and family have no interest in. Sure, maybe they could guilt a best friend or a boyfriend or girlfriend into coming along, but then they’re stuck with a downer of a travel buddy. Much better to not compromise on an adventure that is keeping you awake at night with excitement than to bring someone along who will grump about it the whole time, just to avoid a perceived societal stigma.

Some people make more money than their friends, but not so much more that they can pay for two people to take a trip. So they choose to go somewhere they’ve always wanted to go, on their own. I think it is much, much sadder to not do something you’ve always wanted to do because you’re afraid of what people will think, than to be a big girl or boy and live your life on the terms that suit you.

And then other people simply want to take a trip by themselves, for countless reasons. Maybe they want to relax and clear their minds. Maybe they want to go somewhere that feels special and private. Or maybe they want to push their boundaries and see if they can make it alone in a city where no one speaks their language. For some people, traveling alone is challenge enough and they want to prove to themselves that they can do it. And why not?

In general, I think it can be very dangerous to make your decisions based on how you fear other people will interpret them. If flying solo sounds worthwhile to you, why hold yourself back because of what you think someone might say? You’re probably just being paranoid anyway! Folks have their own lives to deal with; they don’t have time to judge you. So go live by your own (kind, thoughtful) rules.

I’ll write a follow-up post about all the fun I’ve had and lessons I’ve learned traveling by myself, so stay tuned. :-)

Words to live by

Maybe if I'm lucky I can do both? (Source)

Thursday, April 17, 2014

Outdoorsy inspiration


If you're ever looking for a reason to get off your couch and go to the woods, this tumblr is all you need. So much inspiration. So much gorgeous. Bonus points for Bon Iver love and all the handsome beards. For Emma, Forever Ago

Sunday, April 13, 2014

Picking a good travel buddy














This is me and one of my best friends, Michele. In the 15 or so years that we’ve been friends, we’ve taken many trips together: Las Vegas, London and Amsterdam, Yellowstone, and a road trip to Mexico, to name a few. This August we’ll be heading to South America to hike the Inca Trail and check out penguins in the Galapagos. I have a few other tried-and-true, go-to travel buddies, and I started thinking about what makes some people work well together on trips, and what makes me think “never again” about others.

With me and Michele, the biggest commonality is probably that we’re both pretty laid back about how we like to plan and take trips, her even more so than me. She lives in Los Angeles and I’m in Austin, so we’ve done almost all of our planning, booking, and confirming for South America via email and text. We took turns booking shared flights, hotels, and excursions, and kept a running tally of who paid what; we ended up pretty darn close, too, considering the expense and detail of this trip. Everything is booked now and I only owe her $113 (it’s coming, Mish, I promise. PayPal, man).

And now that we have the big pieces in place, we’re both leisurely perusing the details—good places to eat in Lima, places to see in Cusco while we acclimate to the altitude, any must-see markets in Quito, that sort of thing. Over the next few months we’ll each come up with our own lists of what we want to do, probably with a lot of overlap, and then just do whatever sounds best when we land. Super easy with no drama.

It also helps that we both just kind of roll with the randomness that pops up when we’re traveling. I remember when we were walking down a street in Nuevo Laredo, Mexico, and saw a Jeep drive by with three or four guys standing up in the back, holding menacingly large guns. We looked at each other and said, “So we’ll go into the next bar and sit for awhile?” “Yep, sounds good.” We ducked into the first place we came to, walked up to the bar and ordered our Dos Equis from a rather bemused bartender, and turned around to take in the place. My eyes surveyed the room and I realized it was full of men, all of whom were staring at us. Michele, meanwhile, had looked at one of the many TVs around the bar and nudged me. “Look up.” I did … and realized all the TVs were showing porn. Then we both noticed the few women scattered around the edges of the room, scantily dressed, looking bored, and ignoring us, unlike the men. And then we saw the door that led who knows where covered with a curtain. And a man walking behind the curtain with one of the bored women. Without a word we slowly, oh-so-casually, like we totally knew what we were doing, walked back toward the door, chugging our beers (we were 21 at the time and had priorities). One of us said, “So … we’ll go in the next restaurant we find and sit for awhile?” “Yep, sounds good.” And that’s how we found an adorable courtyard restaurant in Nuevo Laredo with delicious chips and salsa and margaritas.

While this story might not say much for our situational awareness or sense of danger, rest assured that we’ve both gotten much better about these sorts of things in the last decade. Michele even looked up the travel advisories for Peru and Ecuador, and we now know to be very cautious with all of our cabs. Progress! But my point is, in my experience, some people tend to have anxious reactions when things go awry, and others are more able to pragmatically react without exacerbating the situation. For my style of traveling, the latter is clearly a better fit. Because even now that we’re more mature and cautious (and know to assess potential porn bars/brothels before ordering beer), things will go wrong on our trip. That’s inevitable on any adventure. Picking a travel partner whom I know I can rely on to keep a level head in those situations is the only part of it I can control.

After all this rambling, maybe it’s time for a list. Here are some factors that I like to consider when picking a travel buddy:
1.     Does this person agree with the type of trip I want to take? Examples include:
a.     Staying in cheaper hotels to extend the trip versus having a shorter, more indulgent vacation
b.     Taking a relaxing vacation with lots of sitting, eating, and drinking versus mixing in more active, outdoorsy fun
c.      Mapping out a strict itinerary versus leaving chunks of time open to explore whatever comes up
2.     What traits about this person bug me under normal circumstances and can I handle them when they’re magnified under the pressure of travel?
3.     What traits about me bother people under normal circumstances and can my potential travel buddy handle them when they’re magnified under the pressure of travel?
4.     Will I get stuck with all the planning and organizing?
5.     Will this person over-plan and over-organize so much that it takes the fun out of the trip?
6.     How does this person react in stressful situations? Do I trust him or her to help when things go wrong?
7.     Are we both stubborn about getting our way or can we compromise so everyone gets to do what matters most to them?
8.     Is he or she slovenly to the point that I wouldn’t want to share a bathroom with them? (It sounds extreme but, trust me, it can be an issue.)
9.     Do they have an appropriate sense of the world around them to not get me in trouble? Will I spend the trip babysitting?
10. Is this person comfortable with splitting up and seeing different things separately? Am I comfortable with that?

I could go on and on, but I think these questions cover the largest concerns about traveling with someone. And don’t forget, travel buddies are optional! Some of my favorite experiences have come from traveling by myself. Watch for a post on that soon. :)

I’d love to hear some of your thoughts on travel buddies. What wisdom have you gleaned along the way? Do you have go-to partners in crime or horror stories of someone you’ll never travel with again?

Thursday, April 10, 2014

Amazing hotels

Just a little travel inspiration, courtesy of Earth Porn. I want to go to all of them.

















P.S. If I ever get married, I think Bali just might be my honeymoon destination.

Saturday, April 5, 2014

Past travels

To kick things off, I decided to do a quick recap of where I’ve been already to remind myself of how much more I have to see. So here’s a list of countries I’ve visited, in order (updated July 2024):
  1. United States (Is it cheating if I was born and live here? Nah.)
  2. Scotland (I spent three years outside Glasgow as a tyke, aged 3–6, and revisited in my 20s: Glasgow, Edinburgh, and Saint Andrews.) I also revisited Scotland when I was 36 (Glasgow and Edinburgh) and 41 (Glasgow and Boat of Garten).
  3. Mexico (Like most teenagers growing up in Texas, I’ve been to a few different border towns.) I've also been to Puerto Vallarta for a family trip in 2018 and Playa del Carmen in 2021. Andrew and I spent 2 weeks in Guanajuato and 3 weeks in Mexico City in Autumn 2023.
  4. England (work-abroad program in London, traveled around the country some as well, Bath, Stonehenge, and Canterbury when I was 21). Went back for a family wedding in 2018 (Beverly) and again in summer 2023 (Lake District, Hexham, Newcastle, and York).
  5. The Netherlands (long weekend in Amsterdam with besties who came to visit me in London)
  6. Germany (first stop on my backpacking leg to see another bestie who was living in Munich, day trip to Neuschwanstein and another day trip to Garmisch)
  7. Italy (solo backpacking to Venice, Rome, Siena, Florence, and Milan)
  8. Spain (more backpacking in Madrid and Barcelona)
  9. France (ended backpacking in Paris)
  10. Belgium (I feel a little guilty including this one because I only got off a train from Paris to London in Belgium to buy some chocolate. I’ll make it back to actually see the country one day.)
  11. Costa Rica (San Jose, Monteverde, Tortuguero, Montezuma, and Manuel Antonio)
  12. Ireland (Dublin, Cliffs of Moher, Waterford, and Dunmore for a friend’s wedding)
  13. Northern Ireland (Belfast on the same trip to the Republic of Ireland)
  14. Canada (Vancouver, areas north of the city for hiking, and Victoria; years later work trips to Toronto, Ottawa, and Montreal)
  15. Denmark (Copenhagen and Elsinore to see the Hamlet Castle)
  16. Sweden (Malmo)
  17. Greenland (Kangerlussuaq in a failed attempt to see the Northern Lights)
  18. Peru (Lima, Cusco, Inca Trail, and Machu Picchu)
  19. Ecuador (Quito and the Galapagos Islands)
  20. Jamaica (birthday getaway at an all-inclusive)
  21. Tanzania (hiked Kilimanjaro and went on a safari), 2016
  22. Cuba (Havana, Vinales, and Trinidad), 2017
  23. Iceland (Reykjavik, Golden Circle, and Vik), 2018
  24. Sydney, Australia (work trip with a few days tacked on for hiking in the Blue Mountains and sightseeing), 2018
  25. Prague, Czech Republic (summer trip with Sarah and Michele), 2019
  26. Vienna, Austria (summer trip with Sarah and Michele), 2019
  27. Budapest, Hungary (summer trip with Sarah and Michele), 2019
  28. Singapore (work trip), 2019
  29. KL, Malaysia (extra days after work trip), 2019
  30. Belize (quick trip with Andrew, Kara, and Erin right before the world shut down), February 2020
  31. Nepal (Kathmandu, hiking in the Himalayas, Pokhara), October 2022
  32. India (followed Andrew on his work trip, Bangalore, Mysore, Agra for the Taj Mahal), March 2024
  33. Chile (Santiago, Valparaiso, San Pedro de Atacama, La Serena), June and July 2024
  34. Argentina (Buenos Aires, Iguazu Falls, and Cordoba), July and August 2024
  35. Uruguay (took the ferry from Buenos Aires to Colonia del Sacramento for one night), August 2024 
  36. Brazil (day trip to Iguazu Falls and the Bird Park from Puerto Iguazu, Argentina), August 2024
  37. Guatemala (Antigua, Lake Atitlan, hiked Volcan Acatenango), May 2025
  38. Wales (added on to a family trip to England, hiked Snowdon in north Wales, stayed in charming Llanberis, and visited Conwy Castle), June 2025
  39. South Africa (stayed in Cape Town for 2 months, visited Kruger National Park), summer 2025
  40. Namibia (4-day trip from Cape Town, Walvis Bay to Sossusvlei back to Walvis Bay and Sandwich Harbour), summer 2025
  41. Rwanda (5-day trip from Cape Town, flew to Kigali and drove to the Virunga Mountains for a gorilla trek), summer 2025
  42. Zimbabwe (3-day trip from Cape Town to visit Victoria Falls), summer 2025
  43. Zambia (crossed the border from Zimbabwe to see Victoria Falls), summer 2025
And one more thing to I want keep track of, the states I've been to (updated 2024):

1.  Texas

2.     California

3.     Oregon

4.     Nevada

5.     Utah

6.     Montana

7.     Wyoming

8.     Arizona

9.     New Mexico 

10.  Oklahoma

11.  Louisiana

12.  Arkansas

13.  Missouri

14.  Minnesota

15.  Wisconsin

16.  Illinois

17.  Tennessee

18.  Florida

19.  Georgia

20.  North Carolina

21.  Virginia

22.  West Virginia

23.  Maryland

24.  Delaware

25.  New Jersey

26.  Pennsylvania

27.  New York

28.  Rhode Island

29.  Massachusetts

30.  Maine

31.  Colorado

32.  Washington

33.  South Carolina

34.  Ohio

35.  Michigan

36.  Kansas

37.  South Dakota

38.  New Hampshire

39.  Connecticut (drove through)

40.  Kentucky (drove through)

41.  Iowa (drove through)

42.  Indiana (drove through)


Kangerlussuaq, Greenland (January 2013)